What is Clutch Creep and what causes it?
If your bike creeps at all something is WRONG - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE the machine until the problem is resolved.
SEVERE CLUTCH CREEP CAN BE DANGEROUS - The bike can lunge forward (perhaps stall, or even continue on uncontrollably) when placed into gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in completely. This is a sign of a misadjustment, mechanical problem, or improper installation. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE THE MACHINE - consult your service manual or local dealership/professional for additional troubleshooting details, if needed.
If this happens to a Brock's Performance bike, we look for:
- Improper cable adjustment at the lever (inspect for proper free play)
- Improper cable adjustment at the clutch (inspect for proper free play 1/2 to 1 full turn out on screw)
- Hydraulic clutch bikes - not enough pressure in clutch line (make sure the slave cylinder piston was not displaced during clutch maintenance etc.)
- Gen 1 Busa inspect sprocket cover for cracks. (our brace can cure this problem)
- Improper stack height (too tall. extra steel and/or fiber etc.)
- Clutch hub nut improperly tightened or has damaged/stripped threads
- Clutch pressure plate improperly installed
- Severely warped steel plates/ severely damaged clutch etc.
- Improper oil selection. We use Alisyn Oil because it does not stick the plates together, which causes creep.
MILD Clutch Creep: When attempting a DRAG style launch, the clutch wants to "pull" the bike through the staging beams. This behavior should be avoided - something is WRONG abort the run and repair the problem.
Note: If the rider 'holds the bike back' for even ONE PASS, the heat generated can destroy the clutch.
First, please make sure items 1-9 are 100% correct above.
Below are the most common causes of Mild Clutch Creep we encounter at Brock's Performance, under drag race circumstances:
- New, freshly oiled fiber plates SWELL after oiling. A couple of quick dry hops, followed by proper adjustment before the first pass, can prevent creep after oiling.
- Warped steel plates (One warped plate, in the middle of your stack, can burn all of the plates from it inward. This is because this particular plate binds and won't let the rest of the stack compress. This is how 'some' of the clutch can look ok, and 'some' are critically burned)
- Improper stack height (there is no "magic" stack height simply follow the installation instructions in your manual along with their minimum thickness requirements. (FYI: stack height is critical for sliders/Gen 2 clutches etc. Not for general use, as long as manual minimums are followed.)
- Clutch spring bind (Brock's Performance clutch springs will not bind with our cushions/spacers etc. WHEN THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED. We are not responsible for other aftermarket springs, your own special configurations, etc.)
- Clutch Cushion use without Brock's lever cam in place (we have additional positions specifically for use with the cushion).
- Clutch Cushion installed on a bike with 'old' clutch line that is worn out (expands too much)- replace the clutch line with braided steel line.
- 'Notches' on the inner clutch hub - where steel plates ride (file smooth or replace inner hub) see note 2 above, these notches can bind up plates, and have the same effect as if a plate were warped, even if they are not We replace inner clutch hubs 2X per season in most 100% drag applications. (When was the last time you replaced yours?...).
- Worn outer hub (must have at least 1 completely tight backing plate spring/ also inspect for notches where fiber plates ride and excessive play at needle bearing) We replace these 1X per season in most 100% drag applications. (When was the last time you replaced yours?...).
Please see the Outer Clutch Basket Inspection video below.
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